New gray cords. And a new obsession.

Got some better photos today of my new grey cords! These are the same as my beige cords which I reviewed more fully here on my blog and on patternreview.com. I made a few changes on the grey version - I scooped out about a quarter inch where the fly is on the front pattern piece to remove a bit of extra fabric from the front. I also sewed the entire side seam with 1" seams. The beige version had a 5/8" seam allowance all the way up to the waistband, where I dipped in to a 1" seam allowance. After sewing the side seams, I went back and starting at the top of the thigh/leg area, I angled the side seam so that I ended up removing about another half inch from the leg width, getting to about a 1.25" seam allowance from knee to hem. Here's the photo, not very exciting, but I love the color!
      

I took these photos after wearing for the day. The corduroy is 21 wale (I think) cotton from Hancock. It's comfy fabric, but I'm not a huge fan of how baggy they got! When I first put on, they were snug enough that I was a little concerned about undie-lines! Obviously, you can see that it's no longer a concern! What's the solution to this problem? More expensive fabric or fabric with a little something stretchy in it (ugh, I HATE STRETCHY JEANS!!)??

So. For my new obsession. It's Self-Stitched September-induced. And it's shirts. The mix of trying to put together self-sewn outfits in cooler weather along with the rather eye-opening experience of taking so many photos of myself has me thinking about shirts. Here's my 'uniform' in the winter. Wide legged trousers or jeans, a turtle neck (tank top or long sleeved, scoop neck t-shirt) and some sort of jacket or cardigan thing. 
   


After the month of photos, I'm liking the look of shirts with a little waist definition...

I'm also wishing for a few more, you know, shirts. With sleeves. That I can wear in Minneapolis winters without having to wear a sweater over everything. I have one. 
[my lone self-stitched, long-sleeve shirt]

So I'm on a shirt pattern hunt. I want some I can wear all on their own when it's cold out, some for under cardigans and I'd like to make some of my own cardigans!

While searching today, I was happy to find the Miss Moneypenny Coco Twinset still on the Hot Patterns website! I'd seen images of the pattern envelope, but for some reason I thought the pattern was discontinued (free shipping for one more day everyone!) I've been looking around for a good cardigan pattern - I'm partial to crew-neck cardigans that are shorter, and all the patterns for cardigans at the big 4 are large, long and v-necked.
 
[hello coco!]
Speaking of cardigans, I also need to step up my thrifting game to shamelessly copy Sunni, the cupcake goddess's, excellent refashion of a man's cashmere cardigan! Even though I'm a knitter, I like to knit socks! And I prefer super-tiny, drapey, machine-knit fabric for cardigans! I'll stick to knitting my socks and the never-ending fisherman's afghan.

Back to shirts. I'm feeling a little stuck on what kind of patterns to even look for! I think maybe I can eek out another shirt or two from the New Look 6808 bow shirt (my current lone shirt, mustard yellow, pictured above in its belted glory.) There are a few collar variations, and I could even do another bow collar, even though it's so distinctive. I have some teal crepe on hand that I'm considering for that. And there are 3/4 length sleeves.

[New Look 6808]
While searching the Hot Patterns site, I came across this pattern envelope drawing for a skirt. I'm lusting over the shirt (with an 'h', not a 'k'!)in the drawing (alas, no pattern). But with longer sleeves. (The skirt is the Croisette, if you're lovin' on the skirt!)

[I want that shirt!]
After a non-productive, eye-rolling-back-into-my-head search through all the shirt and blouse options at the big 4 sites, I realized that I already have a pattern with similar lines. From Hot Patterns. The Bo Ho  De-Luxe Peasant shirt!
[yes. I'll take 3 more of you!]
 Of course, the Bo-Ho Peasant shirt has a bajillion gathers. And I want something in a knit that's form fitting. But the 3/4 length version has the shaped neckband and raglan sleeves I want with the wide neckline. And I've already made two of the cap sleeve version, so I figure I can pinch out excess fabric on the already made versions and redraft from there! It's worth a shot!

My search also reminded me of my super love for out of print Vogue wardrobe 2925 with its cute cap sleeve t-shirt and awesome jacket! There's about 3 billion reviews on patternreview (ok, 39), so once again, I'm late to this party!

[Vogue 2925-OOP]
 Other than that, I'm just not feeling a lot of the shirt and blouse patterns I've seen! I occasionally look at the Sencha from Colette, but I'm not a fan of high, high necked blouses. And the buttons down the back! Argh! Once I make a Jenny skirt, I'll see if I think I can pull off the high waisted skirt, tucked in blouse look (like Lazy Stitcher can!) The Sencha is so perfect for that!

[Sencha - Colette patterns]
 I still have Simplicity 2501 and 2601 cut out and ready for adjustments and muslining (that's a verb, right?)

And I have Simplicity 2936, not cut out and I'm not sure how much I like how baggy it looks - although it has a needing to be tamed, longer sleeve option and I like the neckline!
And that's it. I can't think of anything else! Suggestions? Warm, cute shirts for a cold, Minneapolis winter? Vintage vibey? Suitable for a large bosomed, shortwaisted, narrow shouldered specimen such as myself**.

**Note to self. Stop googling 'flattering styles large bust narrow shoulder'. Resulting conflicting rules and advice make me yearn for a tank-top-buying-trip to Old Navy...

7 [comments]:

Andrea said...

We seem to have the same taste! I have made a couple of the New Look bow shirt in flannel and the bow, 3/4 sleeve adds a feminine touch to a manly flannel. I have both those Hot Patterns, but haven't made them. The cardi is a bit too boxy for my taste. I've made Simplicity 2936 and 2501. 2501 didn't work for me but more because I'm high waisted in addition to full busted. I think you're taller than I, so it might work for you. Try a muslin. 2936 is nice, but took a lot of alterations. I think I ended up making the shoulder area a size smaller than my normal size, did a 2in FBA, added to the side seams and added an extra front waist dart. If you like knits, New Look 6735 is a good, basic tee. I've also used the longer sleeve to add to short or sleeveless tees.

Anonymous said...

I hear you on the struggle with tops. Now that I'm sewing, I actually have the option of having long-sleeved tops again... and figuring out *what kind* is kind-of boggling my mind.

Re. the Hot Patterns non-pattern top... it looks like a basic raglan top with a wide band. I have a RTW with similar lines (in a knit) and it's just a raglan-sleeve T with a wide scoop-neck. The band itself is cut on the cross-grain and stretched as its sewn so that it lies more-or-less flat. There's a basic raglan T-shirt pattern on Burdastyle that I think could be modified into it, or any other raglan-sleeve knit top you might have a pattern for. I want to make one like it, too (with long sleeves!). Mmmm, long sleeves.

Anonymous said...

Also re the pants! LOL. They look good. I find that stretch wovens (pretty much all I wear) still stretch out as you wear them. My solution is to make the pants tight to start out... YMMV.

[patty the snug bug] said...

Andrea! Your blue bow shirt was what inspired me to add the longer sleeves to my yello! I spent FOVEVER (Ok, I clicked on the photo!) trying to see where you added the extra dart. For some reason, it didn't occur to me to just ask! And I had totally added that New Look to my wishlist when I was conducting my pattern search! And I agree that the cardi pattern is boxy (with some alarming references to facings! Ewwww! But I thought it would be a good jumping off point for shoulders and neckline, and I can work on shaping through the sides. OTOH, my favorite RTW cardi's are pretty boxy (the ones with flowers on the yokes that I am wearing in almost every SSS photo!), I just buy them smaller and let my body do the shaping!

Taran - thanks for the tip on the band. I need to stock up on some inexpensive practice knit fabric!

I checked out Burda as part of my search and didn't see any raglan sleeve Ts - do you remember the name? I thought Burda would provide a good basic pattern, and was surprised when I didn't find one!

And yeah - I thought I HAD made the pants tighter! The stretch was rather amazing! Fitting trousers is the hardest for me, body image wise! I like how I look in a dress/skirt, not so much in pants! It makes objectivity fly out the window!

Anonymous said...

this was the one I was thinking of... it's not one of the nice free ones, unfortunately :P. (And I don't know about you, but I can often find a paper pattern for cheaper, just not as instant-gratification ;) ). McCall's 4872 (out of print but not that old) also has a similar view, complete with band.

[patty the snug bug] said...

That McCalls pattern looks really great! I might bite the bullet and pay the whole $15. Grr. The Burda's good too, but I bought the Jenny skirt a few weeks ago and can't bring myself to take out the tape!

[patty the snug bug] said...

Andrea! I picked up New Look 6950 today - I was looking for a cami pattern and saw this and LOVED the 3/4 sleeve shirt!

Of course, got home, checked pattern review and saw that you already went down this road! Did you ever try anything after your blue version? One of the other reviewers had done a mix of lengthening the body pieces and narrowed/shortened the collar pieces. Thoughts?

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