Evening sea otters. It is so cool that you eat your dinner on your tummies. Speaking of which, after last night’s painstaking post on classic wardrobe pieces, I’m back and I’m looking for help finding a pattern for yet another classic garment: the babydoll dress. Hello 1995, I’m coming to get you.
[image feathers and rags]
Yes. I’m going to make one. And yes. It’s going to be that short. Summer’s almost here and I have absolutely no shame when it’s 90 degrees out. Of course, I’ll probably wear something underneath. I was thinking cut off jeans. Or perhaps even a pair of Colette Mini Bloomers, which would bring me nicely into a fetish lifestyle that I haven’t really considered until right this minute.
The search for the babydoll dress pattern has been brewing and is full on due to a semi-recent acquisition of some military boots. Not as authentic as my lost-along-the-way 10 hole docs, but much more comfy and I think they are much cuter.
[Two Lips Liberty boot. Image Amazon**]
So how did I get to this place, where I’m searching for a dress pattern that I’m most likely to find in the maternity section of the current pattern books? It was very insidious. First, I got the boots. They are quite comfy and fun. And you all know how much I love good boot. I thought I’d wear mostly with jeans, but once in my possession, I started to recall how much I loved boots and dresses. How I searched thrift stores high and low for the perfect dress. How I consistently settled for a dress that was a bit more cast off Sunday School teacher dress than babydoll. I remembered how the dresses I really liked were at Global Village, a shop in the closest (uh, a two hour drive…) big city that sold incense and those odd smelling black canvas mary janes and strange wooden bowls. I liked the dresses there, but even in high school, the XL wasn’t quite swishy enough for my taste. I was more of an XXL – even though at 18 I wore a size 14 or 16, depending on the brand. Before I was completely overcome with memories of the 90’s and headed out to start applying at coffee shops and stock up on used CDs of Bob Marley and Lords of Acid (what can I say, it was the soundtrack of my life circa 1994) it occurred to me that I can stock up on all the craptastic polyester voile with a floral print that my little heart desires and make my own darn babydoll dress. This time, with enough swish.
[image stylehive]
I am aware that a summer wardrobe of babydoll dresses will make me look a wee bit odd. There will, perhaps, be a bit of age-inappropriate behavior going on. And my feet will get hot in those boots. I hate hot feet. Nevertheless, this is the direction that I will be taking summer 2011.
If only I could find a PATTERN!! OK, I know a few of you will probably pipe in and say that I should just make one, sans pattern. I was thinking that too. I mean, could there be an easier dress pattern to come up with all on my own? I don’t recall these dresses having any shaping on the top half, and the skirts are darn near rectangles with gathering. Granted, my preference is for a bit of a sleeve and sleeves are my weak point, but I could probably make this without an official pattern. Right? The thing is, I don’t have any problems completely revamping a pattern to suit my whim, but I really like to start with something that has good bones. And. There. Is. Nothing. Out. There.
[image weardrobe]
OK, enough eyecandy. I’ve been including the dress photos not only to entertain, but to instruct. The babydoll dress I’m hankering for is not just a floral dress. Not even a short floral dress with an empire waist, although I would also be happy with short floral dresses and empire waists. The main design elements I’m after are:
- bodice with minimal shaping – no gathers, darts or other shenanigans
- empire waist
- skirt that is very gathered
- scooped neck
- sleeves – slightly dropped shoulders
- buttons all the way down the front from neckline to hem
I stopped by Joann’s to feverishly thumb through pattern books the other day. I checked Burda, New Look, Kwik Sew, Vogue, Butterick, McCalls, Simplicity and Silhouettes. Even in the pattern books, the basic shapes for all dresses are sheath, the full skirt/fitted bodice 50’s shape, or in the case of Vogue, crazytown, but with very clean lines. There were a few Anna Sui patterns that were calling to me, but not only do I not want to spend a full week of my life working on pintucks (hello Vogue 1177), but they weren’t the design I was searching for. Although with a good floral fabric, they would be a fine compliment to my hot and sweaty military boots.
[Vogue 1177]
Obviously, if I were to attempt this Vouge pattern, that drawstring would not end up right on my hips like the model’s dress.
BTW, for those of you who missed out on the 90’s, let me be the first to say that contrary to internet reports, we did not all wear greasy hair, choker necklaces, baggy jeans, overalls, platform sneakers, banana clips, brightly colored denim, flannel, fur lined trenchcoats and Keds. At least, not all in the same day.
Back to the pattern issue. I left Joanns and checked the interwebs. I thought I might have some luck at Hotpatterns, but alas, struck out. At least I think I did – does anyone else have a hard time seeing their new website? The pattern images are teeny.
The last place I checked was Lanetz Living. You can search for patterns by decade on the site. Here’s the best option I came up with:
[Vogue 8315]
This is actually a great option. I’d raise the waistline a bit, and make it from more flowy material (I actually do have some craptastic floral print poly voile hanging out in my fabric cabinet) – but this pattern is a size 8-12, so I’d have to grade up before making my general fitting changes – for this style, probably only an FBA on a size 18, as I’m guessing the wearing ease at the waist and hip are more than generous. I don’t know if it’s worth the six dollars plus shipping, plus waiting (I’m not very patient, mail order annoys me) to get a pattern I’ll have to chop up just to get started. Sigh. Also, total disclosure, I couldn’t bear scrolling through the patterns on the Lanetz Living site. Good lord. What were people sewing in the 90s? It was all giant blazers and giant shoulders and other horrifying things.
Final note. For all you doubters out there, and to return to the premise of my post yesterday on making classic clothing styles work for me; while I’m fixated on finding the right pattern to start from on my babydoll quest, I fully expect that once I get started I will add some sort of shaping to the bodice and perhaps ease back on the gathering in the skirt. I mean, if I put on a dress with no shaping from the bust down, it will be muumuu city! But I want to start with the right pattern and take it from there!
OK, night all! Please let me know if you have a lead on a babydoll pattern, contemporary sizing 18. And let me know if I missed anything on my trip down 90’s lane. I spent a good part of the decade in coffee shops and at parties in warehouses. It’s quite possible I’m mis-remembering…
17 [comments]:
Ok. I saw this pattern today at the Value Village for 69 cents and almost bought it. Scoop neck, empire waist, no shaping, hugely flowy... I can go back and grab it if you can stand the wait for shipping from Toronto?
Oooh what a fun challenge. I think you need to look at tops and just extend the length to reach that tunic length.
Here are my picks:
Simplicity 2854 View F
http://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/19515
New Look 6836 View C
http://www.simplicity.com/p-2508-misses-separates.aspx
New Look 6763
http://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/2384
OK...I love your blog, but I never comment. But, a product of early 90s fashion -- and yes, I still pine for those lovely days of palazzo pants and stacked heel oxfords — I had to finally comment.
In a size 14-16 (36-38 bust), but this is *THE* 90s babydoll pattern.
http://cgi.ebay.com/McCalls-Pattern-5314-Sportswear-sz-14-16-/220762796291?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33667cf103
How do I know? I made this pattern, the collared version, in a olive rayon challis with brass buttons, and I wore it to work with leggings and stacked heel oxfords c. 1992. To work. In an office. And people were simultaneously aghast and awed. I loved that period. sigh.
Its strange you say that. I bought a bulk load of patterns from a charity shop here in the UK a while back and i have a 1995 babydoll pattern
http://www.etsy.com/listing/23109376/simplicity-pattern-9601-misses-6-8-10
My version is upto a 16 (42 bust)
Is that the kind you were looking for?
Stevie
oh...and fyi, the mccall's pattern has kimono type sleeves, not set in sleeves.
Could you start with a simple shirt pattern and add a skirt? Like you say it's probably pretty much two rectangles. The Burdastyle Port Elizabeth Top came to mind. I think the things that give me the horrors about the 90s patterns are those boxy sleeves, and the waist gathering. But I love all your inspiration pics and I'm sure you'll do something wonderful. That Vogue 1177 reminds me a lot of the Anna Maria Horner Roundabout Dress, which I made despite my instincts that said ~drop waist, gathering, NO!~ and it turned out I loved it. Probably a rather simpler pattern that the Vogue... and it has pockets! I'm also a big fan of the boots-with-dress look. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
Hi there!
I have a stash of old Burda Mags from the 90's that I brought back from my grand ma's. I gave a quick look, and there are two interesting patterns (1995). I have found no link online, and I have no scanner... But as soon as Mister comes home, I'll get him to take a picture of the pattern!
I just saw a long sleeve shirt dress pattern in the April Burdastyle issue. They made it up in a floral cotton. It has a babydoll feel to it. You've probably already seen it.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGH! I have been having this exact problem!!! I did find an early 200s pattern on Lanetz living very similair to your candidate. Have not tried it yet. It also comes in the "slort" option. I LOVE SKORTS. I know I know. BABYDOLL SKORTS! <3 There is a MCalls sundress that has promise. A princess seamed bodice empire waist and heavily gathered skirt. Here are my results on this subject, it involves grafting the two pattern views http://sew-misunderstood.blogspot.com/2010/11/i-want-babydoll-dresses.html
I have a couple patterns for you! KwikSew 3245 http://www.fabric.com/notions-patterns-sewing-patterns-by-category-dress-patterns-kwik-sew-tank-dresses-w-waist-detail-pattern.aspx could easily work, but would need a fuller skirt. Back in the very late 90's, up to about 2002, I used Cindy Taylor Oates Everyday Dress http://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Dresses-Sewing-Pattern-Taylor/dp/B002RZEGHY as my TnT dress pattern. The scoop neck bodice would be perfect with a shorter skirt.
It's mccalls 7523. I sent you an email with a link to a vendor who has it in every size ever. We could do a babydoll sew-along, no doubt.
McCalls 7523 looks like it totally nails it. I'd be up for a baby doll dress sew along. I work at a school that sometimes has "Throw Back Friday" where all the teachers dress like we did when we were the students age. The babydoll dress and army boot como would kill. I could even see myself Kool-Aid dying my hair for that, Dookie style.
Oh, dear. I may have to dig out some pictures here... I wore my babydoll to my first job interview. And throughout my first pregnancy... And... Man, now I miss that dress. Shape-wise, mine was boxy but had ties in the back... Ties in the back are my friend.
I was sewing in the 90s, and as I recall, I made a ton of long, flowing dresses, which I wore with white tights and brown maryjanes (ala Strictly Ballroom, check it out). I still have some of them! It's hard to throw out home-sewn clothes you're proud of, even if you haven't been able to fit in them for like ten years. I've always had a soft spot for flowing dresses and boots, btw.
I have a copy of this issue of Burda Easy (2/97!)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ110602141875
The cover dress has armhole princess seams and the skirt is pleated instead of gathered. It goes up to size 46. If it looks promising, I can post some pics to Flickr.
Now, backing to beating my breakfast on an abalone shell...chocolate keeps melting tho.
Oops, just noticed that the bodice of that dress is knit.
Have you found one yet? There's this one too:
http://risingfeenix.com/inc/sdetail/70106
I just bought a larger version for "Your Pattern Shop" but there's one more in the larger sizes available on ecrater.
You have me nostalgic for my youth, ha. YES, let's do a babydoll sewalong!!
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