Greetings meerkats and happy day-after Memorial Day!! Mr. Bug and I were pookie housebears on our day off. I embarked on a small reorganization of my sewing room that ended up with the inevitable trip to Ikea. In future sewing space news, Mr. Bug and I also measured our basement, currently a very strangely shaped unfinished cement box that will someday be a bright and cheery combination of family room, sewing space and poker-and-model train space, although if Lucy the hound has her way we’ll just cover the floor with pillows and call it a day. Here’s the result of our Ikea field trip… before and after. You guess which is which!

 

While the after (on the right) actually has MORE boxes than the before, some of those boxes have Mr. Bug-belongings in them, so this was a win-win trip for us! In the boxes I have my current projects, a box ‘o patterns and a box with supplies for stuff I make to sell on consignment. The basket on the side is for fabric scraps – much nicer looking than my previous grocery bag system! The drawers are for Mr. Bug’s treasures as is the giant box which is full of Drum Corp CDs… The previous sewing machine has been removed from the table. It has to go in for service and I may keep separate from the table as a space saver. Since I love seeing the insides of everyone else’s closets, I snapped a few more pictures to show all ya’ll meerkats how I have arranged my things. Also included: some super-messy out-takes and 70’s knitting-accessory fun.

On-the-wall storage

OK, so I neglected to take a full-length shot of my sewing desk, but for those who haven’t seen it before, I have a cute little white cabinet mounted to the wall above the desk. I’m a big fan of using mason jars for pretty notions and coffee cans for the not-so-pretty. My local super-fancy grocery store has a house-brand of coffee that is sold in these slightly smaller coffee cans and I usually drink el-cheapo french roast from the Target, but I also buy the pricey french roast from Kowalski’s to stock up on the cans!

In the cabinet I keep things that I tend to use a lot. Top shelf: Zippers – the Coats’n’Clark kind that are wrapped in cardboard, with unwrapped ones would ‘round the coffee can. I keep my YKK ones strung on a safety pin and hanging so they don’t get kinked. In the center of the top shelf I have a little glass jar with labels and tags for clothes and consignment items, then an old spice jar (I think it had lavender in it) with bobbins. I obsessively tape the tails on my bobbins because I can’t stand the thread-nests! I have a can full of sewing machine oil and needles and then some glue and fray check. The bottom shelf is pretty much all buttons. One jar each of singles, mostly vintage, and one jar of buttons on cards.



Closeups! Here’s my sewing machine stuff. I’m a big fan of
Schmetz needles – mostly because I like the little plastic cases!

Labels, tags and bobbins…

On the desktop

Again, no full-length pictures, but let’s move on to the desktop, shall we? In addition to coffee cans and mason jars, I also love magazine files (from Ikea, of course) to help corral everything. Right now, I have three on my desk – one for TNT patterns, one for patterns, samples and handouts for classes and one marked miscellaneous that has my sewing machine manual, a couple of notebooks and other little things.

Next to the magazine files, more jars! Clockwise from 12 o’clock: thread, roughly organized by color, a jar with the makings for a black bead necklace I’ve been hankering for, mints (I’m addicted to altoids and the tins are good for holding pins’n’things!) and two half-done sewing kits in a jar for selling at the shop.

More jars! One huge jar with markets, scissors, rulers and other long pointy things. The dressed up coffee can is a misc-catch all

On the end of my desk is a jar for thread tails (my wrist pincushion is sitting in the mouth of the jar right now!), pincushion and my sewing box.

My sewing box is my main little toolbox without which I can’t sew. Mine is more robust than I’d really need if I just sewed at home, but since I go back and forth between my house and the shop I’ve found it’s better to be safe than sorry. Here’s what’s in it…

Top row

Clear elastic – I ALWAYS was finding myself needing just enough clear elastic to stabilize shoulder seams while at the shop, so I threw a whole roll in my sewing kit!

Jeanamajig – This little tool helps when sewing through many layers of thick fabric. I haven't played with it TOO much.

Hand needles – in the pink pod – just a nice selection of needles! We carry these needles at the shop – the case is super handy.

Needle threader – the blue thing is a needle threader. My machine at home has a built in needle threader, but the ones at the shop doesn’t so I occasionally use this. It’s usually more trouble than it’s worth, though.

Twin needle – I keep one of my twin needles in my sewing kit – I kept having to buy ANOTHER one at the shop, so I thought it’d be nice to always have one.

Fabric glue stick – I’m a big fan of using glue to hold stuff together or to act as a second pair of hands. Helpful for turning up hems, doing flat-felled seams, etc.

White and black thread – Another item I kept having to buy at the shop, I just stuck one spool of each basic color in for emergency sewing!

Wonder tape – double sided water soluble tape without which I simply cannot sew. It’s super hard on needles (it make’s ‘em gummy) but SUPER useful.

Stay tape – this stuff is weirdly loosely woven, sort of like sew-in interfacing. I find I use it a lot!

Beeswax – I should really move this to my hand sewing bag, that’s when I use it.

Waxed cord – this stuff is super thick and strong and reminds me a bit of candle wicks or upholstery cord! I buy it for ten cents a ‘spool’ at our local fabric warehouse and use it mostly when I make pincushions (for the tufting.)

Bottom row

Presser feet – It’s hard to see the details, but the feet that I must carry with me are a the stitch-in-the-ditch foot, the invisible zipper foot (I don’t have a problem with the plastic kind!), a regular foot with clear plastic to see what’s going on underneath, an edgestitching foot and a blind hem foot. For the most part, these are feet that help me do more precise topstitching-type sewing.

Flash drive – I don’t use that often, but occasionally need to transfer files, so I just stuck one in my sewing kit!

White chalk – I bought this before I bought my favorite chalk marking tool. I still use it occasionally. It’s easy to hold! My main complaint was lack of precision. It’s good to use to rub the outline of something or for quick marks like marking a fold.

Chalk sharpener – pretty self explanatory

Chalk marking tool – Love mine – uses different pieces of (broken) chalk. Easy to switch colors and you can sharpen the chalk to make a very fine line.

Pencil – I use pencils to mark my fabric a LOT. I hate how the water soluble markers are hard to see and don’t work on a lot of fabrics. I’m just careful and made small marks. Good for fabrics (like quilt-weight cottons) that are white on one side and printed on the other.

Chalk – oops… I dropped my chalk refill! Broken! Mad!

Manicure scissors – these are Revlon manicure scissors. They’re annoyingly hard to hold (I have giant fingers!), but the tips are slightly bent, which gives a lot of control, and one tip is SUPER pointed, which helps when using to rip seams!

Seam ripper – I like mine, but honestly I use scissors more than the seam ripper for a lot of ripping! I always bunch up the fabric when using a ripper, no matter how sharp they are.

4 inch scissors – LOVE these scissors – super sharp, small, my fingers fit in the handle! These are a mid-range brand – I spent around $13 for them. I wish I’d ante’d up and gotten the Ginghers as my only complaint is that the tips aren’t quite sharp enough to cut notches – I have to cut further up the blade on flimsy or thicker fabric – makes it easy to cut too far.

Tweezers – Great for pulling threads when ripping out mistakes or for pulling tissue out from seams after using to stabilize. I was grabbing these from the medicine cabinet so often I just co-opted a pair for my sewing kit.

Thread snips – that’s them – the black thing next to the tweezers. Mine are Gingher’s and fancy, but I wouldn’t buy them again. They’re too ‘one use’ and I tend to use my little scissors more often.

Seam gauge – I have two of these and use BOTH of them all the time. Best sewing accessory ever! Most used to check seamlines, pin up hems, place buttonholes (that’s when I use 2!), pressing bias tape… the list goes on. I use the straight side to help press out the seams when I’m sewing french seams – helps on the second pass to not press a pleat at the seamline – just slide it in and gently ‘pull’ at the seam and press over the metal gauge.

Inside the desk…

One of the reasons we chose this particular desk (also Ikea…) for the sewing room is that it has doors and adjustable shelves rather than drawers for storage. Super helpful! Here’s a shot of the inside of the right hand door.

The black pouch on the top shelf is my hand-sewing bag with all my silk threads, thimble, teeny needles and a pair of scissors. I hand-sewed for YEARS and am still the most comfortable doing that. I prefer silk thread for all my hand sewing and you can see I’ve got mostly the cheaper Gutermann thread, but I’m building up my collection of the more pricey Japanese stuff – all in the thicker buttonhole twist weight (30… um, pounds?) I prefer TEENY short needles because of how I hold my needle. They’re harder to thread and can only handle single strands of thread, but when I use a bigger needle it feels as awkward as trying to write with a big, fat kid-crayon!!

There is also a little white chest on that upper shelf that holds more hand sewing needles and pins.

 

if you’ve got a Target near you, the Target brand spices come in these super handy little bottles! I buy just for the bottles and wash ‘em up. Here’ I’ve got a few more quilting betweens and my scary curved needles stored in one. I’m probably dulling the tips by letting them hit the glass, but, oh well!!

The last two items stashed on the right side of the sewing desk are these two magazine baskets with my collection of quilt-weight cotton. I mostly use these to make pincushions and the like for consignment items, but you know how often little scraps are handy! If they’re this weight and bigger than 6x6”, they stay in the baskets.

 

Wanna see what’s in my drawers?

My center drawer is mostly for pattern adjusting materials as well as a few little office supply things. Post its are so helpful – when I’m topstitching I note down the needle position and stick it to my machine so I can remember what my settings were.  I’ve also got a vat of mini binder clips that come in handy while sewing as well as for clipping pattern pieces together. I have sheets of pattern tissue good for adding tissue while adjusting patterns. I also cut a bunch of tissue into 1 inch (or so) wide strips and stuck ‘em in a bagggie to use as a stabilizer when I’m working on really thin fabric. To round it out, I have my roll of wax paper (my main pattern adjusting material), wax tracing paper and some measuring tools.

Ironing central

My ironing board is on the left side of my desk and part of my reorganization was to make a home for all of my ironing supplies. I originally had left room in the desk to stash my machine, but that rarely happens, so I decided to take over the always-empty sewing machine space and get rid of more clutter…

Now all my ironing stuff – tools and interfacing – are nicely tucked away, but close by!

My clapper, my spray bottle, some starch that I’ve never used but bought when contemplating working with polyester georgette… My naked ham (someone get that ham some clothes!!) and my pressing cloths. My main pressing cloths are (1) a piece of silk organza (2) a piece of wool (3) two pieces of muslin, one ‘clean’ and one that I use when putting on messy interfacing like weft insertion that sheds the adhesive onto the cloth.

I keep my interfacing in shoe boxes from Ikea. They were left over from an old organizing scheme, but they work well. I can see inside, they open and close with velcro and fit well in the space that I have. I have one box for sew-in, one for silk organza and one for fusible.

1972 called…

I also keep my knitting needles in my desk. I still use my grandma’s knitting needles and case. Isn’t it awesome?? I particularly like her scrap yarn-pull!!

Most of my grandma’s needles are the 70’s aluminum kind and they are hands DOWN my favorite. I love the way bamboo looks, but those needles tend to be too slippery and weird feeling for me. You can see I’ve added to her collection. Also, check out her labeling system!! I think grandma would have liked my label maker…

Overflow

Of course, there isn’t quite enough room in the sewing desk for everything I use on a regular basis. I’ve also got stuff stashed in the china hutch in our bedroom….

On the top shelf I have my covered buttons. I use these a LOT for sewing garments and other things.

To save space I take most of the button kits out of their packaging and put everything in a baggie – one baggie for each size. I also have some rings for doing the fancy Chanel-style covered buttons and a few vintage covered button kits stashed away.

Also on the top shelf is one of my two Longaberger baskets I was coaxed into buying many long years ago. This one is pretty handy with its insert! I keep twine, candlewicking thread, crewel yarn and embroidery thread in here. For the most part these are yarns that I use when I’m making pincushions. Messy, isn’t it!?

I’ve got this basket stashed on the second self as well (I brought it out into the light for better pictures!) On the left there are all the buckle kits I’ve collected. And a giant roll of elastic that is a sort of mystery. Why did I need such thick elastic?

My one regular sized coffee can lives in the hutch and is home to all my store bought bias tape, hem tape and rick rack. I keep the cardboard that comes in those packages and use it to wrap the bits of leftover trim around for better storage.

And finally, my basket ‘o trim. Here I’ve got bundles of lace, rick rack webbing, bias tape I’ve cut myself… all sorts of stuff. In the plastic baggies are bias strips of pink voile as well as bias strips of fusible interfacing.

And that, little meerkats, is that. But before I go… lest you think that my sewing room is all neatness and fairy kisses… here I am mid-organization. It’s not normally THIS messy, but the ironing board generally has a bunch of stuff sitting on it!!

Disaster!!

Disaster struck near the end of the day!! You can’t really see in any of the photos (barely, to the left in the photo just above…) but I have a nice set of hooks on which I hang in progress projects, to-do projects and mending, and totebags. Apparently, I need to work through my to-do list, because the whole shebang jumped off the wall last night and tried to kill me!! Stupid anchor bolts.

Organizational Porn

Really, I wouldn’t be where I am today if it wasn’t for my P-touch. I love you P-touch…

Good morning flying squirrels! Does all that extra skin make it hard to fly? Our basset hound has a lot of extra skin too, could you give her some flying lessons?

I had a hard time getting photos taken for snugbug365 this week – last night I took three days worth of daily outfit pictures! I managed, but barely…

Row 1: Saturday day | Saturday nite | Sunday

Row 2: Monday | Tuesday | Wednesday

Row 3: Thursday | Thursday action shot | Friday

All the gory details can be found on snugbug365!

And now, tidbits I found interesting on the googles this week!!

 

Lace-trimmed Bias Binding!

star1

[image curves, patterns and pins]

Reana Louise from Curves, Patterns and Pins showed off her lovely lace-trimmed bias binding. I liked her method of attaching the lace, a technique that she based on Tasia’s bias tape tutorial from the Pendrell sewalong!

 

Wet-Blocking Knits

star2

[image By Gum, By Golly]

Tasha of By Gum, By Golly has been leading the Briar Rose Knitalong. I haven’t been following super closely, but this picture-heavy wet-blocking tutorial caught my eye. I haven’t been knitting a lot lately, but when I DO knit, I use a blocking method that I’m sure would make most knitters cringe (there’s a wet washcloth and an iron involved.) Wet blocking seems difficult, messy and, well, messy to me. After reading the tutorial I’m not so scared! (oh! and BTW, if you missed it, Andrea from the New Vintage Wardrobe posted her completed Briar Rose sweater yesterday! It’s adorable!)

 

A no-brainer tip that never, EVER occurred to me…

star3

[image Gorgeous Things]

Let’s just get it out of the way… Ann over at Gorgeous Things shared this brilliant tip: make your skirt before your bodice so the bias has a chance to hang out while you complete the dress. Seriously people, I bet most of you love that 50’s style dress with the full skirt that needs to hang before it gets hemmed, so this should be super applicable. It has never occurred to me to get the skirt out of the way first! Or, is everyone doing this and I’m just slow on the uptake??

 

the question – to jump or not to jump

Finally… what are all ya’ll all flying squirrel’s thoughts on inserting the ‘read more’ break in blog posts. Love ‘em? Hate ‘em? I realized this week that I insert them because I hate scrolling through my blog looking for a post from last week. But most of you probably aren’t doing that on my blog! I generally read most blogs via Google Reader, so the jump isn’t even an issue, but for those who read blogs by going to the website, do you prefer the quick view and you click for the rest, or is it annoying to have to do the extra click to read the full post?? Let me know!

And with that squirrleypoos, I’m outta here. We are low on the plans for the holiday weekend. Some gardening, measuring the basement to make a working floor plan for a potential renovation, a little bit of work at the shop, a bike ride with Mr. Bug, party at the neighbor’s and lots of sewing are in store for me! See you next week!

 

Maxi Dress. Obsession, plotting, muslin #1.

Greetings semi-tame burros of Custer State Park. Next time, we’re bringing carrots. Your big scary teeth are getting way too close to our fingers. Now, will you kindly remove your giant head from our car window so we can go find some bison??

Since burros such as yourselves are naturally clever and curious, I know you’ll understand when I tell you that I recently because OBSESSED with the-making-of-a-maxi dress. It was a natural progression. Again, I’ve left off making this month’s dress for my Year of the Dress project and here we are, within waving distance of June. Take that, add in my project of the week of putting together the class schedule for July (all dresses in July, donkeys. All dresses!) and then top off with eight yards of lighter-than air silk/cotton voile and what does a jenny like me get? A plotting-about-it-while-you-should-be-falling-asleep sewing obsession. The maxi dress.

001

[image Anthropologie]

Getting inspired

I’ll start at the beginning. As I’ve mentioned before (and will undoubtedly mention again) we’re doing ‘theme’ months in our class lineup at the shop. May is the month of skirts, June is all about shirts and in July it’s all dress classes. As I flipped through the Kwik Sew catalog, looking for dresses that were stylish and appropriate for a beginner-level class, my peepers fell upon this magnificent goddess caftan.

002

[Kwik Sew 3856/3868]

Perfect, right? Easy to sew, fun for this summer, totally on trend, available in regular AND plus sizes… I added to the class lineup, picked out my sample fabric and moved on to other things. Specifically, working on my May dress.

I originally intended the May dress to be a shirtwaist made from some completely over the top rose-print quilt weight cotton. But when I cut out the pieces and made muslin #1, I realized that fitting the dress is going to take a while. Plus, next month is our one-year anniversary and we were married under a rose-bedecked gazebo, so perhaps that would make a better June dress.

38202_412631344885_750929885_4318375_6293954_n

But we’ll save that for another month. In the meantime, what to make for June?? While prowling around Joann’s the other day (for muslin, actually, but I got distracted) I found some simply lovely cotton/silk voile in a pseudo tribal print that I found strangely compelling. Tribal print is not my thing. I also found a coordinating crazy poly butterfly print, and not wanting to have all that nasty poly against my skin, I stopped by fabric warehouse SR Harris and raided the $5.00 silk bins where I found some hot pink cotton/silk blend lawn perfect for lining what was shaping up to be a fine romp of a dress. I mean, anything that involves 10 yards of fabric is going to be a whizzbang, am I right, my braying equines?

Alright. Inspiration, check. Fabric, check. Now for the pattern. I could have easily just made the Kwik Sew pattern, but I’ll be making up that pattern as a sample for the class and I sort of wanted to do something different. Also the Kwik Sew pattern has a surplice neckline (the crossover) and I had some detail work in mind that would work better with a centered front seam. I surfed the usual suspects to check out different styles out there (Anthro, Banana, Ann Taylor, J Crew, ModCloth and Asos) and after much photo flipping I determined that the Asos Maxi Dress models looked uncomfortably emaciated and that I wanted a kimono-type sleeve rather than sleeveless, an empire seam with some shaping in the front and some gathering around the shoulders. Here’s my top three inspiration photos.

004  006  005

[images left | center | right]

I considered just draping the whole shebang, but I haven’t made many garments with kimono sleeves and I wasn’t 100% sure the best shaping for the bodice pieces with the sleeves, gathering and V-neck. I checked out the pattern catalogs at Joann’s and found this pattern from Burda.

Here’s the technical drawing.

The bodice looked perfect, although the pattern is drafted for a knit and I’m working in wovens. The skirt shape isn’t what I want, but I thought if I used the bodice pattern pieces and graded up, then left off the gathers on at the waist and just added an elastic casing and the skirt pieces I could get where I wanted to go. So let’s get started.

Tissue fitting

Here is a shot of the front bodice piece and the trim piece for the neckline and center front – in case you, too, weren’t sure what the pattern pieces would look like for this style. I’ve marked the gathering points in pink. The pattern instructions say to run gathering stitches between the two pink dots and gather until they are three inches apart – they’re a little over six inches, ungathered. Once the gathering is done, the bottom edge of the bodice sits straight across the body and is not higher in the center front as it looks when lying flat.

And here’s the back bodice piece with the neckline trim.

The pattern ran through a size 20 – measurements bust 41/waist 32/hips 43.5. For comparison, the Big 4 size 20 is bust 42/waist 34/hips 44,  and the Hot Patterns size 20 for the 24/7 A-line and Pencil skirt is bust 46/ waist 38/hips 48.

Clearly, I would need to size up. Not only are the measurements too small, but the pattern is designed for a knit, so the built in ease will be different than it would be for a woven. AND the fit of the bodice is a bit more body conscious (at least, according to the envelope art) than I have in mind for my maxi dress. While I don’t want the dress to be giant, I would like to hit an easy, loose fit.

When I know I’m going to be significantly resizing a garment I follow these general steps. 1) tissue fit to get an idea of how much to add (2) adjust pattern (3) sew muslin (4) fit muslin (5) transfer fitting changes to paper pattern (6) if the fit was REALLY off or I’m working on a very fitted garment I repeat steps 2 through 5. Otherwise, I just start in on the garment.

To tissue fit I put regular scotch tape along all the ‘seamlines’ so that I can stick pins through the tissue and try on my paper garment without tearing it to bits. You also have to pin in any shaping at this time – like darts and gathers. I taped and pinned everything together and was lucky enough to have a friend help me with the next step. Slide on the tissue garment and get it to fit as well as possible at the shoulder, neck and side seam. Pin so that the side seam and shoulder seam are lined up in the center of your body, then pin the center front and center back as far as it will go, keeping in mind the desired ease (so don’t pin it super tight if that’s not the fit you want!) We pinned the tissue right to my shirt to hold everything in place.

Here’s the back view. You can see that it nearly reaches my center back (CB)- marked in pink. If I start with a size 18 or 20, I usually don’t have to grade up or adjust the back. However, since this pattern is intended for a knit and doesn’t have as much ease built in as I’d like, I’ll be grading up a bit. See how it veers out a bit more towards the top? That’s more because I’m wearing over another shirt and because the arm opening is a little small than because my back is wide there!

Hmmmm. You can see a LOT more width is needed in the center front!!

I also need more length overall. I’d like the front bodice to hit where the pink line is in the photo below.

Adjusting the pattern

I slipped off the tissue and did some math. I considered the flat paper measurements, the measurements I took during the tissue fitting and my own measurements along with how much ease I wanted in the dress. My hip meaurements are much, much larger than my bust, waist and midriff measurements. I’d considered making the top of the skirt and the bottom of the midriff the same width, but decided to make the bodice a bit smaller and gather the skirt before attaching to the bodice. I decided to add 1.5” to the front and back bodice pieces. This will give me six additional inches, enough to grade up and provide some ease. In addition, I’ll add 2” in length to the front and back pieces and I’ll add 2” to the arm openings.

First, adding 1.5” to the back. I thought the neck opening seemed a bit small, so I added the full amount at the base of the neck. I’ve marked the edges of the inserted tissue in green below.

In the front I added the tissue between the gather marks. The gather marks are in pink, the added tissue marked in green. I wasn’t 100% happy with adding here, but I didn’t want to add toward the center front as I didn’t want to make the angled neckline any longer, and I thought adding more towards the side seam might alter how the shoulders lie.

Next I did a little math. Rather than gathers, I was thinking it would be nice to use pleats. Here I’m working on the front. There’s roughly 8” between the gather points that, per the instructions, needs to be reduced to three inches. I decided to take five 1” pleats, removing 5” from the gather area and leaving three inches of fabric. Perfect! Since I want my shoulders to look symmetrical, I will need to also figure out the spacing between pleats. With five pleats, there are four ‘spaces’ (tip: hold out your hand and pretend each finger is a pleat. Count the spaces between the fingers – four ‘spaces’!) So I have four spaces that I have to fit in three inches. Three divided by four is .75. I will mark five 1” pleats, spaced .75” apart for a total of 8 inches.

Next I added length. Here I’m adding 2” to the back bodice piece. I cut along the shorten/lengthen line, then slid the bottom away from the top, keeping the center back edges straight – it helps to work on a gridded mat for this. I filled with tissue, but have one more little fix. See on the right, I’ve marked the two  corners where I’ve slid apart the pieces, they aren’t in line any more! When you add length along a curve seam you need to true up the seam lines – basically, redraw the seamlines so they are nice and smooth.

Normally, when I true up the seamlines after adjusting a pattern, I try do it gently over as long an area as possible. This time I did it as short as possible because I wanted to avoid adding more width to my ribcage area. I just used my curved ruler to ease back to the top of the line where I cut to lengthen the piece.

Trimmed!

Here’s the front bodice piece lengthened – shown in green.

The final adjustment is to add 2” to the arm opening. These arms are super simple – they are just openings left by not sewing the side seam all the way up the shoulder! The original marking for the arm opening is shown in green. I measured down 1” and made another mark. Since this is a double layer of fabric, by sewing 1” short, I’ll be adding 2” to the arm opening.

Analyzing the muslin

I sewed it together and was pretty pleased! Since the style of the dress is so simple, this isn’t much to look at, but I really like the kimono sleeves on my wimpy shoulders.

Front and side views.

 

The width feels really good. I think I might shorten the sleeves just a bit and I was thinking of lowering the neckline, but I don’t want it to be ridiculously low cut so I’ll probably leave it alone!

One change I’ll be making is to add a bit of shaping to the empire seam on the center front. I want the dress to be at more of an angle than straight across. It’s sort of messy because I just stuck a pin in it, but on the left is the muslin as sewn and on the right I’ve pinned up the center front.

 

Here’s a shot from the inside of the shaping. the green lines mark the fold and the raw edge. I’ll transfer these marks back to the paper pattern and trim a wedge from the bottom of the paper pattern.

One final adjustment – the pleats on the front and the back don’t line up and I don’t really like how it looks. I don’t know if it’s a result of my adjustment or if it’s just the way the pattern was drafted, but the green dot marks where the pleats start in the back and the pink where they start in the front. I’m not sure where I’ll move things too. I like the drape at the top of the shoulder on the front a lot,  but the pleats going so far down my arm cause a bit of weird bagginess that I’m not sure about. I’m probably overfitting, here! I will probably start the pleating a BIT closer to the green dot, perhaps a half inch closer to my neck.

That’s where I left off! Next up in the process will be transferring the adjustments back to the pattern pieces, then I will cut and assemble the bodice. I will probably construct the skirt a bit more by draping – no paper pattern pieces! I’m envisioning a couple of rectangles with some gathering, so it shouldn’t be too hard other than the shaping at the center front and figuring out how I want the layers to work together!

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...
top